This is the journal of Benedict Beaumont as he travels round India on a Mororbike.

This is the journal of Benedict Beaumont as he travels round India on a Mororbike.

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Decisions by Text and the other side of the River.

'I have a passenger for you!' Ollie shouted across the crowded table of the breakfast club as I returned from the Internet Cafe. It was dark, and the numbers for supper had increased.

'You are going to Nepal right. Denise wants to go as well. How do you feel abut taking her on the back?'

Denise was the Dutch girl with the pixie high cheekbones who had been giving Sean, the aspiring monk a hard time..

''Erm, I don't know. Will she fit?'

'Yeah, she's tiny'.

'I guess it would depend on how much luggage she had'.

'Two bags,' Denise chimed in from the end of the table. 'So you're the biker boy?'.

"Yeah, I guess so. Well we could try it out I suppose', I said doubtfully.

I hadn't thought of taking a passenger, but it might be fun to share the journey for a day or two. Denise seemed to be good company and have her head screwed on right. But on the other hand, I had got used to my own company and my own thoughts whilst riding.

'Oh, I don't know', she mock wailed. 'Should I go to the deserts with everyone else, to the beaches or to the mountains'.

We left it that on the first evening, and I didn't really think much about it. I reckoned the chances of her really wanting to take the risk of coming on the back of a strangers bike to Nepal low.

I didn't go rafting with them all the next day. I decided to stay and relax at the guesthouse, reading, doing my washing, preparing for the journey ahead.

I am meeting a friend in Kathmandu on the 25th of November, and we are going to trek to Everest Base camp together. A huge mountain waiting for me at the end of the road.

To get there, I have to drive across Uttarakhand, cross into Nepal, and then ride the length of the country. I knew absolutely nothing about the terrain or the roads. If the traffic was anything like it was here, then it could take a week or more. If it was like Rajesthan, then it could be just a couple of days.

Another problem had also cropped up. I had heard a rumour that you had to wait two months once you left India before you were able to return. Even if you had a multiple entry visa.

The travel agent confirmed this. 'I think it best if you contact your embassy', he said. So I spent an hour researching, and as far as I could make out, if you can prove that you must return to India for flights, then they might waive the policy. I would have to risk it.

The lack of knowledge of the roads was still a concern. How long would it take? I resolved to leave the next morning, to leave the maximum amount of time.

So I rose early, packed, loaded the bike and went to join the breakfast club. Only Ollie and Michelle were there.

'So you are leaving?' Ollie didn't sound surprised.

"Yeah, its time to go'.

'We're leaving too, for Rajesthan'. Michelle added. The supper club is breaking up. The Austrians are headed to Pushkar as well, so we will be able to regroup there.

Krishna, the Nepalese waiter who everyone adores, came up. 'So what you wan for breakfast?' he enquired.

A thought jumped out at me. I got my map out. 'Krishna, how long does it take to get to Kathmandu from the border'.

'Oh, long time', he nodded. 'Ten twelve hours'.

'No, I meant from the border to Uttarakhand, not the one near Varanasi'.

'Yeah, Mahanegar. Ten twelve hours. Roads very good'.

'Really, are you sure'.

'Yeah, really'.

I asked him a few more times, just to make sure that he really understood where I was coming from, and each time he confirmed, getting a little bit more perplexed each time.

That threw my calculations well into flux. There was not such a big hurry at all. I could do that in two days, one at a real stretch. The urgency of leaving now had diminished.

'Should I go now, or relax another day?' I asked more to myself.

'Oh, I dunno' Ollie yawned. 'What about Denise?'

I had forgotten about Denise.

'I have her number' Michelle added.. 'Why don't you text her. If she wants to come, then go tomorrow. If she doesn't, you can still go today.'

So I texted. I liked the idea of someone else deciding my plans for a change. What would the answer be?

A few minutes later, the answer came back. 'Sounds amazing! If we can sort out my luggage, then I'm definitely in!'.

So that settled it. I was staying another day, and I would have a passenger to Nepal.

But I was keen to get out of High Bank. The isolated guest house and restaurant was beginning to get a bit claustrophobic. So Ollie got on the back of Ambliss, and we went across the river to where he and Denise were staying. I immediately felt better; the street was full of travel agents, shops, restaurants, ethnic clothing and jewellery - a proper hippy traveller enclave.

I met Denise at the hotel and explained the route to her. 'Cool, do you think we will be able to get to Pokhara by Saturday?'

'I have no idea! But if we can't, we'll find a bus stop where you can'.

I felt good about sharing the next few days with Denise, but I knew almost nothing about her.

'So, what do I need to know about you?'

'I don't moan, or complain. I like adventures, love being surrounded by nature. I like taking risks', she said without any hesitation.

That was good enough for me.

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