For one thing, the drive in was easy. A well maintained duel carriageway, with nice plants and trees, and well maintained houses on either side. Also, the quality of the driving was much much better. People indicated, didn't run me off the road, were considerate drivers.
Secondly, I found a hotel really easily. It reminds me of a coaching Inn almost. There is a square outside, and the hotel is brick fronted, making it look a bit like an old fashioned American Frontier hotel. It is quiet too.
Thirdly, my nose had led me here, and it proved exactly the right choice. I had chosen Hissar as it was about halfway between Bikaner and Rishikesh, my next major destination. I knew nothing about it, could find no entries in any guide books, but I sensed it would be right, and it is. A well developed, comparatively clean and prosperous city.
Bikaner appeared last night in a swirl of dust and sand in the dark. It was so thick it felt like a pea-soupper' from Victorian London. Choking. And it got into my lungs, and I have been coughing and wheezing and laid low by cold every since. It probably added to my poor spirits yesterday.
But I found the hotel easily, and ate and read on the rooftop. A noisy wedding next door didn't really help my dark mood, and I really couldn't face doing any of the tourist activities such as seeing the fort or visiting the rat temple.
The riding today started in the same mould as yesterday. I was run off the road twice by buses and swore loudly and long at them as the disappeared off, whollly ignorant of my ire.
But about 1pm, I took a back road, an old National Highway, from Churu to Bikaner. Compared most of the roads in Rajesthan the road was quite bad. There was lots patches where it had been repaired. And a few potholes and bumps too.
But strangely, I really enjoyed it. I think I have missed the challenge of driving hard roads. My mood started to lift.
Around 2, I passed a nice clean looking restaurant, with chairs outside. I had been starting to get hungry and this looked perfect.
The conversation that I had with the owner has been typical of several that I had had with various people.
He spoke slowly and gently, sometimes struggling for words.
'You are British. British people... good... honest. As I get old... I think honesty... is best.
'You are Christian?.... Hindu, Christian, Muslim.... all one God... we are all... one people..... Religion is..... love......
'I worked in ... Yemen.... 24 months... a painter..... foreman from .... Cyprus
.. other people there from.... England.... Turkey..... all good people.
'My Son....' He gestured to one of the waiters'.... worked in ... Saudi Arabia..... but I like him here.....
'He wants to go to ..... Canada.... England.... you think this is possible?....
'You like India?.... yes, people here are very.... friendly... and kind... and generous.... you find..... what you are looking for... in people...
'There is only one God.... and that is Love....'
The compassion in his eyes, and his expressions of love were genuine. His sons, and brothers and workers were all around him, part of the family. He blessed me as I left.
This is the Spirit of India that I love, that restores when all the shitty parts get you down.
So I have left Rajasthan now. The Desert part of the adventure is over. I have many days journeying ahead through Uttarakhand and then the length of Nepal.
In some ways I am tired of the adventures, but in some ways I am desperate for them to continue.
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