We had spent an hour with Joey the day before mapping out our itinery - exactly where we should go, where we should stay, where we should fill up in Petrol, where we should not go. It was quite exhausing, as he was so enthusiastic about everything.
At 9,30 we set of for our big adventure.
The road out of Shimla was predictably snarled with traffic. It took about an hour before we were really free of the congestion and able to appreciate the riding.
And great riding it was today. Some of the road I had been on, and mostly it was free of traffic, well surfaced, and wiending through woods, river valleys, and over mountain passes. There were lots of level wide parts to speed up too.
Riding tandem was pretty fun. We stopped more often than when I was on my own, but went faster generally. Dan has been driving bikes for 20 years or more, and as well as being a pretty good mechanic, had lots of tips about driving these kinds of roads. 'On the rough parts, stand up. Your centre of gravity is lower and it gives you more stability'. Or 'take your sunglasses off in the woods in sunlight. You get better contrast and can make out the shadows more easily'.
About 6 hours got us to Sarahan, 2000m up and the site of a great wooden temple to Bimakali. I do not know a lot about the history of the Hindu Gods, but Suzy did tell me that he was one of the brothers of Arjuna that features in the
The temple is made of wood and stone, with cloisters round the outside, and successive hammered metal gates leading to 2 main towers, which are both top heavy. The wood is all fantastically carved, and some of it looks very old, but some of it is obviously more recent.
We were relieved of our shoes, cameras and leather belts, and then ascended tthrough the various levels to the top of the tower.
In the centre of the room at the top tower, was a small sanctum. I ducked through the lowe doorway, and there mounted on a regal thrown, in full regalia, with minature attendants all around, was the 'God'.
A man sat in the corner gave me some rice to make as an offering, and I bowed my head and paid my respects.
Joey had said 'You know man, you can DEFINITELY feel something when you are before one of the Gods. I mean, there is, like, a Presence'.
I am not sure exactly what I felt, sitting there. It did feel like there was a person in front of me, almost like someone was watching me. It certainly didn't feel completely human, or completely benevolent.
If it was in England, I would probably think a lot of hocus pocus, but here I am not sure. There has been so much veneration at places like this for so long, that I think some of it must get soaked up somewhere.
The temple is also a guesthouse, a lot of really generous looking rooms overlooking the courtyard. It would have been lovely to stay there, but unfortunately it was full. The attendant though, made a call on his cell phone, took us through the temple precinct to a half completed building on the other side. 'Guesthouse' he proudly proclaimed.
I looked at a couple of rooms - basic, but seemed ok. Well mine was. Dan's had a funny smell in. Took a while to realise that there was a big pile of monkey dung in the middle of the bed. 'Erm, maybe not that that', he said.
We checked the next one - seemed ok. But hidden under the table, we found more evidence of the relaxed attitude monkeys (and the owner) seemed to have about their toilet.
The third one, however, was clear.
The town is small, 2 streets. The shop fronts are all old, and open out onto the small square. Once the sun had gone in, the temperature dropped, and by 7.30, most places had closed up. We ate at a small cafe with an outside kitchen, and met a retired Canadian couple. By 8, we were back in our rooms, wondering if the malevolent incontinent monkey would be back later to visit.
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