Relationship Management, Dancing Llamas and the Girls playing up

Another session with Jamaica and his home boys last night in the front lounge. This time we drank local wine, although it is actually whiskey made from barley. Joined by three of his other guests, lecturers in business from a University in the Punjab. It was quite interesting to discuss and compare our different educational systems, complaints about management and students seem to be universal. They were very interested in Dan's role as a business advisor in Afghanistan.

Started earlier than usual with a service of the bikes. As we were going to attempt the 200km drive to Manali the next day, across the fearsome Kunzum-La and Rohtang passes, we wanted to make sure our bikes were in top condition.

Dan showed me how to check gear and primary chain oil - I was almost out on both. Colourful language about Rajesh in Delhi, and for me the engineer in Karsol too, were forthcoming. I am fortunate to have Dan with me, who is not only a good bike engineer but a patient mechanics teacher as well. I have learnt a lot from him in the last 2 weeks, and feel much more confident about routine checking and servicing. Also tightened my chain and cleaned my air filter whilst Dan took his to a workshop to get a bit of body work straightened out.

It felt a bit like relationship maintenance. Spending a bit of quality time with our 'girls', making sure they were all right, spoiling them perhaps with new oil and ironing out other problems. We only have them on hire, and eventually they must go back to the evil pimp Rajesh in Delhi, but whilst they are with us, I intend to try my best to treat them properly. I am of course learning how to treat the 'girl' properly, but I am very willing.

Our destination today was Comic, high up on the Eastern Side of the Spiti valley, with views to the Tibetan Plateaux. There was a festival to be held at the monastery there, and we had the chance to see the dance of the Llama's.

We were joined by Trixie, a Romanian/German girl we had met briefly the day before. She really wanted to go to see the monks dance, liked bikes, and I think enjoyed the company. She is a curator in Berlin, but is taking some time out. She proved good company today, and I know that Dan appreciated having a girl on the back of Butch.

The road climbed forever it seemed, but just when we had almost given up hope of ever reaching it, around a corner were the buildings of the monastery, and a little below them, the hamlet of Comic.

Comic is 4700m high and boasts to be the highest village in Asia. We certainly felt light headed and easily tired walking about.

We were greeted by the Vice President of Kaza, who took us to a little room and served us Chai and biscuits. As non Indians, we must have been seen as VIP's. He invited us to look round the Gompa, have some lunch and then watch the Llamas dance.

Had a quick look round the Gompa, and then went for lunch. There must have been between 450 and 500 people, so the catering was no mean feat. There was a field kitchen set up, and they gave out big portions of rice, dhal, potato curry, egg curry and a steamed bread item I have not seen before.

The dance was held in the courtyard of the main Gompa. It was enclosed on all sides, and a sizeable crowd gathered to watch them.

Firstly, 2 boys with fearsome yellow masks on came strutting out of the temple and down the steps. They danced around a bit looking scary, and then proceeded to act like bouncers, keeping the crowd in line and frightening the little children.

Next came the musicians, horns and drums. They set up shop in the corner and kept a constant din going thoughout the performance.

Then came the Llamas. Fabulously dressed as possibly demons, protectors, yoginis,
Boddhisatvas, dragons, they came out and danced round a mandala in the centre of the yard.

It went on for ages without much change, and as the sun went down, it actually got a bit cold and monotonous. But suddenly, without any warning, it seemed to be over, and people were rushing to lie down on the floor at the exit. This was so the Demons, Devils or Gods or whatever, could step over them and bring them luck or blessings or something.

The processions went on outside, down a marked path to a little clearing, and carried on in much the same manner. However, we were keeping a watchful eye on the time and the temperature and decided to head home.

Unfortunately a few problems with the bikes on the last stretch, Mine kept misfiring and Dan's rear brake started screeching terribly. We decided very quickly that the long ride to Manali tomorrow was not now a possibility. We would have to take Dans rear wheel off and this could take upwards of an hour. My carburettor would have to be drained too to hopefully stop the misfiring. It is at least 11 hours in the saddle over difficult terrain and this would not leave us enough time.

Also, we have had some reports of the road, there is ice on the road. This time lat year the passes were already closed with 4 feet of snow.

So it looks like our duel with Kunzam-La and The Rohtang will wait at least one day and possibly not at all. It is probable that we may have to go back to Shimla the way we came.

It is bitterly disappointing to have the problems with the bikes and the weateher, but it is far better to have them now, than somewhere between the two with no help of nearby. Maybe the girls are playing up, but maybe they are saving our lives.