Four people, the divided table of nations and advice for the Shimla Tourist board

Today has been about people. Four people who I have had fascinating conversations with. And visiting one of the most impressive buildings I have ever been in where the fate of nations was decided. And getting lost again.

The first was a Frenchman who was living and working in Bangalore. He was in Himachal Pradesh for the 'Tour de Himalaya' bike ride. He said that he didn't do a lot of cycling, but had entered for the fun of it and completed a 500km gruelling up and downhill trial round the Himalayas. Incredibly he had come 14th of about 120 people. Only 40 people had completed the course. He was small, thin and wiry, but still had an incredible sense of humour about him, despite having just finished a feat of physical endurance that I can only imagine and shudder at. We chatted over toast and coffee until his taxi came to pick him up to take him back to the airport.

The next was an elderly, but still incredibly vital, almost sprite like, French Professor of Oral History. I met Ann and her mad wizard of a husband (who is an Anthropology professor of sanskrit) at breakfast a couple of days ago. They were here to speak at a conference at the Institute of Advanced Study. This is housed in the old vice regal lodge of Shimla.

This was a place I really wanted to visit, so after my conversation with the French guy, I headed off to find it. A very pleasant roundabout walk through the woods of Summer hill eventually got me to the Institute just in time for the 11am tour. A vast gothic building that is just incredible. It was the summer home of the VIceroys of India from about 1890 to the end of the Raj. Curzon, Elgin and Mountbatten all lived here.

It was here that the independence of India was thrashed out and the partition of India and Pakistan was decided. They held this at a round table to try and foster a sense of togetherness, but unfortunately the table was in two semicircular parts, like most round tables are, with the two opposing sides opposite each other. And partition came to India as it did to the table. I always find being in places of such historical importance moving. The history of the world was decided at this table.

Out in the grounds I bumped into Ann. We had a conversation about the architecture of Government and military buildings, the family of Hindi languages and the tradition of Orality in theatre. We were also stopped by an Indian Times Journalist who wanted to know if we had any advice for the tourist board to make it more attractive to foreigner. Anne fixed him with a baleful gallic stare, and in a gravelly french voice said 'Oui! More places for Smokers!'.

On my way back I went back through the shaded wood lined road I had come on. Or so I thought. I ended up on a hill and I couldn't see Shimla anywhere. There were just wooded valleys in front of me. Again, I had got lost. I eventually found a road, and found out I was 7km from Shimla. Ironically the advice I gave to the journalist was have more signposts. Sighing, I yomped up the hill. I didn't really mind - I am climbing up to Everest base camp and I figured that any exercise is good.

I got back to the lodge about 2pm exhausted. Whilst recovering with a coke, I met Joey the owner (that isnt his real name, he said that it was too difficult for Europeans to remember). He was just a couple of years older than me, with a big black beard, a frame that shows he has obviously enjoyed himself and bright sparkly eyes full of enthusiasm. He turned out to be a goldmine of information. Not only did he help plan my routes for the next few days, but he described the places with such passion, that i could not wait to get there. He also said that he would rent out his beautiful Enfield Stallion to Dan so no need for him to hire one in Delhi.

We got to talking about how Europeans fare in India. He said in his deep voice 'You know, enjoying India is all about opening yourself up. I see Europeans arriving here, and all they see is the dirt and the poverty and the pandemonium. But after a few days, they see that beggar with nothing, and the rickshaw driver earning only rupees, and the rich businessmen are all happy, They don't understand at first, but slowly, if they are open, they begin to understand the deep spirit within all the people here that enable them to be happy. And then the craziness starts to make sense. Its all about opening yourself up'.

He left to go and pick his mother up, and I went into town feeling really refreshed and fired up for my trip with his words ringing in my ears 'You are going to have the trip of a lifetime in the next week. And then the week after you are going to have another trip of your life!'.

I had briefly met a girl travelling by herself just before I set out for the Institute, and I met her on my way into town. She was looking a bit frazzled from being at stared at so much in town, so was keen for some company. We navigated the lower bazaar, past the most disgusting (and fragrant) abattoirs and pissoirs you can imagine until we reached the calm of the top plaza. Here we had an ice cream and I found a little bit more about her.

Rhiannon is only 19, and had come to India by herself, and done a months volunteering at a Missionary school in Manali. She is here for a couple of days before heading south to help set up the international Hay on Wye (where she is from) book festival in Kerala. She has done a lot in her tender years including working for a lab, volunteering in a gardening club, and teaching herself biology A level, so she could go and study medicine. She said that many people had said she was brave coming to India alone, but she didn't even think about it. After a few weeks of stares, catty comments from people, and often feeling awkward, she now realised how hard it actually had been. I felt quite protective of her really.

But unfortunately I will have to abandon her tomorrow as I am heading to Rohru in the Pabbar valley, east of Shimla. Joey said this country 'is so beautiful that it makes my heart weep' and I would have it to myself. I will hopefully be there a couple of days, before heading up the Kullu valley (again 'beauty like you would not believe and perfect riding country'), before I get back to Shimla next Sunday to meet Dan.

I feel like I am opening up a bit more to India.

PS have added a few photos to this entry, from my visit to the Indian Institure. I particularly like the one of Nehru joking with Lady Mountbatten. Curzon and Elgin are there, and their bios too.