Yak Chicken on a Bridge or I accept your Apologies

'There are two paths from Namche', Mark explained patiently. 'When we came up we took the high one, remember. We are on the lower path now. Any minute now there will be turning to the left to the high point'.

'No, your wrong! the turning was back there, where we saw the girl carrying wood, by the chain link fence'. I replied.

'No its down here' he carried on.

'Look we passed this bit on the way up. Remember?'

We carried on bantering in a good natured way about who was best at navigation. Eventually Mark conceded that I was right.

'I accept your apologies', I said loftily.

We had left Kangjum, the Amadablam View Guest house and Tashi a few hours earlier. Namche, dirty and smelly and full of hassle, was reacehed in an hour or so. We stocked up on some vitals there before we headed on. It was much warmer than the top of the mountains, and the valleys a lot greener. We were all in god spirits, laughing and joint together.

'Fancy an Orange?' Mark called out to me. 'How much are they Indra?'

Indra asked the lady selling. 'She say 50rps for one'.

'50 Rupees!' Mark was aghast. 'Thats London prices. I don't believe you. I'll give you 100 for 3'.

The lady shook her head.

'I think thats the real price fella. I don't think you can haggle this one'.

'Of course you can, she's just trying it on'.

'No thats the price she gave Indra. I think thats a real Nepali price'.

'Nonsense. 30rps each max'.

'Well Im going to have one anyway. I think 50 is a real price'.

'Suit yourself' Mark shrugged, 'But your being ripped off'. I paid the 50rps, and shared the orange with Mark and Indra. It was delicious.

'How much do you think he could have got that Orange for?' Mark asked Indra a little later.

'I don't know. Maybe 30 rupees?' Indra answered.

'I accept your apologies!' Mark looked smugly at me.

I grumbled at him, but laughed too.

We carried on down the steep slope from Namche, then along the river valley towards the gates of the Sagarmatha national park and Lukla. We passed only a few trekkers but plenty of porters, and trains of ponies and yaks. Whenever they came close, Mark would always retreat to the side of the road.

'Hey Mark, that guy Ian last night, Ian the Salesman, he said he could cure you of your Yak Phobia'. We had been needling each other all morning, each trying to find a way to wind the other up.

'Im not scared of Yaks! Ive just got a healthy respect for them'.

'You mean you run away and hide whenever they come close?'

'Look, if you want to get gored by them, or trampled by them, or thrown off a path thats your choice. But not me'.

We were approaching one of the many steel rope bridges. A few porters were coming across the other way so we paused to let them over.

'You're not going to get gored or trampled by them. They are tame beasts of burden'.

'Oh yeah! Well if your so bloody brave you face them then. Go on!' He pointed at the bridge. The porters had crossed, but they were followed by a train of yaks. 'Go on! You see if they are tame'.

'All right then, I bloody well will!' and I strode onto the bridge.

My bravado was all very well bantering with Mark, but I realised now that I was on a a narrow path, with half a dozen huge yaks ponderously coming towards me across a swaying bridge. I turned back to check with Indra, he sat with a smirking Mark. 'You'll come running back', he called out to me.

I gritted my teeth, I would not give hime the pleasure! So I headed towards the Yaks.

Yaks are truly massive beasts. Bigger than any cows or bulls. They are covered with a thick shaggy coat of hair, and have nasty looking horns and wild looking eyes. I wasn't being completely honest when I said they were tame beasts of burden, there is something wild and vicious in them, they do but and sway their heads trying to knock people off.

I gulped when they got close. I could see the herder behind them frantically whipping them and calling out to them. I flattened myself against the cabling and tried not to think of their sharp horns. It was like playing Chicken, but with Yaks, on a Bridge. I closed my eyes.

A huge snort, a heavy breath, weighty footsteps, a heaving flank next to me. Then passed me. Then another coming - I breathed in more, and it passed too. Then a third and a fourth.

The herder passed me as well, swatting the final yak in the train, shooting out commands to it. I was passed! I had faced down the Yaks on the bridge! I strode to the end of the bridge, and waited for the Yaks to cross then Mark and Indra to make it to my side. I had a big smile on my face when they did.

'Bastard!' Mark didn't look at me as he stalked passed.

'I accept your apologies' I called after him laughing.