Indra looked surprised. 'I do?'
'Yes. I want to hear your story, about you, about your life. Also, I think you are different from most Nepalis I know as you have a love marriage. I would like to hear about that...'
'Ok...
"Well I came to Kathmandu when I was about 17. I left my village, near the copper river. This is one of the holy rivers that eventually flow into the Ganga. This one here,' he pointed to the river rushing down in the valley below, 'is called the milk river because the foam and the glacier make it white'.
'So I left my village to try and do something. All that I could do there was herd goats. My parents are farmers, I come from the Newari Caste. But I wanted something more.
'In Kathmandu I started at a French college to learn English. I stayed with my mothers sister, sleeping in the lounge. But there was no money, I couldn't afford it, so I had to find work.
'I started in a hotel. Working and living there. For two years, I was there all the time. Earning money, but no time to learn anything.
'Just down the road, was a house, with a girl in it. We became friends, and I, er,' Indra went all shy for a minute, 'fell in love with her. And we got married'.
'Was she your caste? Did your parents matter? What about her parents?'
'Well her parents at first were shocked and angry, but they got used to it and now we are very good friends. My parents were very happy too.
'There are more love marriages than you think. Many times, children will go to their parents and say "I love this girl, please can you arrange marriage with her parents for me", and they do. So is a love marriage, but also an arranged marriage too.
'Caste is not a problem in the cities. Is only a problem when you do not have education, when you are out in the villages. My wife, she is of the Civil Servant Caste, often lawyers too.
'Seven years we have been married now. We have two children, the youngest six months.
'So, how did I become a guide? Well, I was in hotel, and a man gave me a chance to be a porter. He was a very good friend to me, almost like a teacher. He died, climbing a peak. He was going to teach me, but now I don't want to learn. There are too many deaths climbing in the mountains.
'I was porter for two years, but I learn English, and then try to work as guide. First assistant guide, then guide. Royal Mountain travel have many guides, sixty or seventy. At moment I am just Royal Mountain Guide, but this winter I will become Government guide.
'I like the Everest trek. I have not done it for a year - but I have been twenty times in total. I have never been to Chikung Ri, or come down in two days either like I have with you, so there is always something new. Also, I love Annapurna too, where I went with Mark'.
'Next year we will go to Shey Phuksondo National Park? To Dolpo and Mustang? I would love to go there. I did a trek with some Russians there once, and broke my arm, I still had to carry on though, but I didn't really see it very much. I would love to go back and see it properly. I would love to go with you too. When I get back I will make itinerary for us? What do you think, next year?'
Surprisingly, Indra is only twenty seven. He carries a smile on his face even when he is feeling troubled or tired or in pain. He is scrupulously honest, kind, and his sing song English is better than it appears. He laughs often and had been a good guide, story teller and friend for the last two weeks. I hope that I do get to travel with him again.
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